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GIL MARKS, a chef, rabbi, writer, and historian, is a leading expert in the field of Jewish cookery. The founding editor of Kosher Gourmet magazine, Marks lectures frequently on Jewish cooking, including at New York's 92nd Street Y Kosher Cooking School. He lives in New York City.

Gil Marks is the founding editor of Kosher Gourmet magazine.

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The World of Jewish Cooking

Simon & Schuster

Pastilla

Moroccan "Pigeon" Pie

8 to 10 servings

After arriving in the Ottoman Empire and discovering phyllo, Sephardim sometimes substituted it for the pastry in their pies variously called mina, pastel, and pita. The most well known version of phyllo pie is the Moroccan pastilla, also called basteya, made with poultry filling and served on special occasions. It is traditionally assembled in a tin-lined copper pan called a t'bseel, but a large baking dish or paella dish can be substituted. Although squab -- a young pigeon -- is the traditional meat, chicken makes a tasty and more available substitute. Pastilla takes a little work to create, but the end result -- a delicious filling sandwiched between delicate layers of crisp, flaky pastry -- is well worth the effort.

Almond Filling

1 cup toasted blanched almonds, cooled

1/4 cup sugar

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

Chicken Filling

3 tablespoons margarine or vegetable oil

2 medium yellow onions, chopped (about 1 cup)

3 cloves garlic, minced

1 teaspoon ground ginger

1 teaspoon ground black pepper or 12 peppercorns

1 teaspoon ground turmeric

1/2 teaspoon saffron threads, crumbled

1/4 teaspoon ground allspice

1 (2-inch) cinnamon stick or 1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon

4 1/2 to 5 pounds chicken parts (breasts, thighs, and legs)

4 cups chicken broth or water

1/2 cup chopped fresh parsley

6 large eggs, well beaten

Assembly

16 sheets phyllo dough

About 3/4 cup (1 1/2 sticks)

margarine, melted, or vegetable oil for brushing (see Note)

Confectioners' sugar for dusting

Ground cinnamon for dusting

1. To make the almond filling: In a food processor, finely grind the almonds, sugar, and cinnamon. Set aside. (The almond filling may be prepared a day ahead and stored in a cool place.)

2. To make the chicken filling: Heat the margarine or oil in a large, heavy saucepan over medium heat. Add the onions and garlic and sauté until soft and translucent, 5 to 10 minutes. Stir in the ginger, pepper or peppercorns, turmeric, saffron, allspice, and cinnamon and sauté for 1 minute.

3. Add the chicken, broth or water, and parsley. Bring to a boil, cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer until the chicken is tender, about 45 minutes.

4. Remove the chicken. Strain the cooking liquid. (You can reserve the solids and later add to the reduced liquid or discard the solids.) Boil the cooking liquid over high heat for about 20 minutes and reduce to about 1 cup. Meanwhile, remove the meat from the bones and shred.

5. Whisk the reduced liquid into the eggs. If desired, add the strained cooking solids. Cook, stirring constantly, over low heat until the mixture thickens. Pour into a bowl and let cool. (The chicken filling may be prepared a day ahead and stored in the refrigerator.)

6. Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Lightly brush a 10- or 11-inch round baking dish with margarine or oil.

7. To assemble: Line the prepared dish with a sheet of phyllo, draping the excess over the edge. Brush with the margarine or oil. Repeat layering and brushing with 5 more sheets, draping each in a different direction.

8. Spread one-third of the egg mixture on the pastry in the pan. Mix another one-third of the egg mixture with the shredded chicken and pack into the pie shell. Top with 6 additional sheets of phyllo dough, brushing with the margarine or oil and draping the excess as with the other sheets.

9. Spread the remaining egg mixture on the phyllo in the pan, then sprinkle with the almond filling.

10. Fold the pastry edges toward the center of the pie, brushing with the margarine or oil. Top with the remaining 4 sheets of phyllo, brushing with the margarine or oil and tucking in the edges.

11. Bake until golden brown, about 20 minutes. Lightly sprinkle with confectioners' sugar, then sprinkle lines of cinnamon to form a diamond pattern. Let stand at least 10 minutes and up to 30 minutes before cutting into wedges.

Copyright © 1996 by Gil Marks

Badam Loozena

Calcutta Almond Diamonds

About 24 candies

Loozena means "diamond," referring to the shape of these candies, which originated in the Middle East. Loozena is a traditional Purim treat in Calcutta.

1 cup sugar

6 tablespoons water

2 tablespoons rose water

1 1/2 cups coarsely ground blanched almonds

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon (optional)

1/4 teaspoon ground cardamom (optional)

1. Combine the sugar and water in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat. Bring to a boil and cook until the syrup reaches the thread stage or 230 degrees on a candy thermometer, about 8 minutes.

2. Stir in the rose water and cook for 1 minute. Add the almonds and, if desired, the spices. Cook until the mixture cleans the sides of the pan.

3. Spread the nut mixture onto an oiled baking sheet. Place a piece of greased waxed paper on top and roll out the mixture to an even 1/2-inch thickness. Immediately remove the paper. Cool slightly and, using a knife dipped into hot water, cut into diamonds. Store in an airtight container at room temperature.

Variations

Pista Loozena (Calcutta Pistachio Diamonds): Substitute 1 1/2 cups coarsely ground unsalted pistachios for the almonds and omit the spices.

Nariyal Loozena (Calcutta Coconut Diamonds): Reduce the amount of water to 1 1/2 cup, omit the cinnamon and cardamom, and substitute 2 2/3 cups fresh grated coconut (or dried coconut moistened in 2 tablespoons water) for the almonds.

Tangerine Loozena (Calcutta Tangerine-Almond Diamonds): Substitute the juice and grated zest of 2 tangerines for the water and rose water.

Copyright © 1996 by Gil Marks

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Excerpted from The World of Jewish Cookingby Gil Marks Copyright © 1996 by Gil Marks. Excerpted by permission.
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