In 1985 two young women chefs with enormous, vitality and imagination published their first cookbook, Cucina Fresca. For many readers it was more than a cookbook; it was a love affair.

Pasta Fresca

Morrow Cookbooks

Pasta e Fagioli

White Bean Soup with Pasta

Lians love the delicate taste of cannellini beans and use them often in soups, as a side dish, or pureed as a topping for bruschetta. They have a creamy texture and mild flavor that are perfectly suited to carry the flavors of fresh herbs and fine olive oil. Every Italian cook has a favorite way of preparing Pasta e Fagioli. From Rome southward, celery and/or carrots are the most commonly used vegetables. A Milanese friend contend's that our version of white bean soup is alla Toscana because of the addition of the soffritto of basil, parsley, and garlic. This soup is best prepared asciutta (dry). The slow, gentle cooking helps to keep the beans intact.

1 pound Cannellini or large white beans
Water
1 small onion, peeled and coarsely chopped
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil, divided
2-3 garlic cloves, peeled and minced
Handful chopped Italian parsley
10 largefresh basil leaves, chopped
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1/2-1 cup imported spaghetti, troken into small, irregular pieces
1 large tomato, peeled, seeded, and coarsely chopped (optional)

Pick through the beans and discard any discolored or broken ones and any stones. Rinse beans gently but thoroughly under cold running water. Place them in a large bowl with enough water to cover by several inches. Let them soak overnight or for at least 6 hou rs. When ready to cook the beans, place them with their liquid and the coarsely chopped onion in a heavy-bottomed soup pot. Add enough water to cover beans by 3 inches. Heat slowly to just below boiling. The beans should not move very much in the water. Keep the water at a point where it barely simmers. Cook for 2 to 3 hours or until beans are nearly cooked. They should be tender yet hold their shape.

Place half the extra-virgin olive oil in a small skillet and heat over a moderate flame. Add the garlic, parsley, and basil. Sauteed briefly, just until the herbs give off an aroma. Add the sauteed herbs and the extra-virgin olive oil to the beans. Add the remaining oil and salt and pepper.. Add tomato, if desired. Continue cooking the beans until they are completely tender. Before serving add the pasta and, stirring often, cook until pasta is al dente and soup has thickened. Serve immediately. Pass a cruet of extra-virgin olive oil to top the soup.

Gnocchetti Rigati con Pancetta e Fagioli Borlotti

Thin Rigatoni with Italian Bacon and Cranberry Beans

A simple farm-style sauce, combining pancetta, beans,, and pasta, that is guick to make yet satisfies as much as any raga.

1/4cup extra-virgin olive oil 1/2 onion, peeled and finely diced 1 carrot, peeled and finely chopped
1 stalk celery, finely diced
5 slices pancetta, coarsely chopped
3 garlic cloves, peeled and minced
1 28-ounce can imported Italian tomatoes
1 can borlotti or pinto beans,drained
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
1 pound imported gnocchetti rigati
Freshly grated Parmesan or Pecorino Romano cheese

Heat the extra-virgin olive oil in a large skillet. Add the onion, carrot, and celery, and cook over medium heat, stirring frequently, until the vegetables soften. Add the pancetta and cook over medium-high heat until it gives off its fat. Add the garlic and cook until it gives off its characteristic aroma. Put the tomatoes and all their juice through the coarse disk of a food mill directly into the skillet. Cook over high heat until the tomatoes begin to thicken. Add the beans and continue cooking until sauce thickens, being careful while stirring to keep the beans whole. Add salt and pepper. Cook the pasta in abundant boiling salted water until al dente. Quickly drain and place in a shallow serving bowl. Add tomato-bean mixture and toss carefully. Pass Parmesan or Pecorino Romano cheese.

Excerpted from Pasta Frescaby Kleiman, Evan Copyright © 2004 by Viana La Place. Excerpted by permission.
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