Food has always been Chef Frederic Pierrel’s singular passion. Now, he and his wife, author Deborah Pierrel, present a collection of his favorite classic recipes. With a refined and down-to-earth style, Chef Frederic gives easy instructions to create appetizers, soups, salads, vegetable dishes, main courses, cheese dishes, and desserts; he also shares the art of pairing these creations with wine.Chef Frederic’s Best demonstrates how this French chef experiments and plays in markets and kitchens all over the world to find new flavors and develop new recipes, some of which appear as nightly specials and added menu items at the Lakefront, in Mammoth Lakes, California, the restaurant where he has worked as a chef for the last ten years. Chef Frederic Pierrel shares his way of life through his cooking. With anecdotal insights to his outgoing personality and creation of recipes, this cookbook presents a hall pass to cooks everywhere to try and try again without fear.

Chef Frederic's Best

Capturing His Creative Flair—at Home and AbroadBy Deborah Pierrel

iUniverse, Inc.

Copyright © 2010 Deborah Pierrel
All right reserved.
ISBN: 978-1-4502-7051-9

Contents

Preface..............................................................................viiAcknowledgments......................................................................ixThe Basics of Entertaining (It is That Simple!)......................................xiTo Start With .......................................................................1Appetizers and Accompaniments........................................................3Soup du Jour.........................................................................15Salads...............................................................................25Plats du Jour (Main Dishes or Those Hearty Enough to Become One).....................41The Hunt for the Elusive Cèpe—a Mushrooming Story.........................63Aside from That (Side Dishes and Vegetables).........................................67Fromage—Say Cheese!............................................................73Dessert, Anyone?.....................................................................75Pairing Wines—Does It Really Matter?...........................................87Notes................................................................................91

Chapter One

Appetizers and Accompaniments

Classique Escargot Bourguignon

They say the three secret ingredients to French cooking are butter, butter, and butter. This recipe adds another: parsley!

Ingredients to serve four

2 dozen canned large certified Burgundy escargots (snails) 1 pound unsalted European butter, room temperature 8 garlic cloves 2 shallots 1 cup parsley 2 tablespoons almonds 1 tablespoon lemon juice 1 teaspoon sea salt ½ teaspoon white pepper 1 teaspoon Pernod

Preparation time: 40 minutes

Drain escargots and lightly rinse under water; pat dry and set aside.

In a food processor, finely chop garlic, shallots, parsley, and almonds. Add butter, salt and pepper, and Pernod, and continue to process until it is mixed well—you have just created escargot butter!

Place a small dab of the butter in the rounds of each escargot dish, add snails, and top each one with a dollop.

Put the dishes in a 350° preheated oven and bake for 15 to 20 minutes. The butter will be very hot and bubbly when finished.

Serve with a glass of white Burgundy and toasted baguette slices.

Antiboise Vinaigrette

A tasty appetizer when served on ciabata bread crostini or as an accompaniment for grilled fish. Frederic doesn't consider this dish finished unless it has mayonnaise or vinaigrette. He says the oils in either bring out the food's natural flavors.

Ingredients to serve six

2 well-ripened tomatoes, peeled and diced 1 teaspoon capers, chopped 1 large shallot, finely diced 1 teaspoon dried mixed seaweed salad, rehydrated ½ cup extra-virgin olive oil 2 dried arbol chilies, crushed 4 French cornichon pickles, diced 1 lemon, juice and zest 1 teaspoon crushed coriander Salt and fresh-cracked black pepper to taste

Preparation time: 40 minutes

Combine all ingredients together one hour before serving.

Dolmas—Deb's Way

On occasion, Deb creates a dish that Fred takes under his wing. At a summer fête atThe Lakefront restaurant, Chef used Deb's Dolmas, a favorite at home for their parties, as the basis for a tasty starter course. He added his unique flair to it, which in this case was the mint, and voila!

Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery, and, as Fred knows, it will get you everywhere ...

Ingredients to serve thirty—a party!

2 jars grape leaves—about 120 leaves ¼ cup chopped parsley 6 cups white rice, cooked and cooled (not sticky) 2 tablespoons chopped garlic 3 onions, chopped 1 (12-ounce) box yellow currants 2 pounds ground lamb meat 2 teaspoons dill Juice of 2 large lemons 1 cup virgin olive oil Fresh mint leaves (from approximately six bushy stems) Salt and pepper to taste ½ cup pine nuts, coarsely chopped

Preparation time: 50 minutes

Cook ground lamb on medium heat (seasoned with a pinch of salt and pepper) in a large fry pan with a splash of the olive oil. Add in onions, pine nuts, and currants, and continue to sauté on medium heat until onions are clear.

Add garlic. Cover and then simmer on low for about 10 minutes.

Cool mixture and then add all remaining ingredients. Mix by hand. Put a teaspoon of mixture on a grape leaf and then fold in the sides and roll it up, like a burrito. Place on decorative platter. Rub a small amount of olive oil on dolmas, and drip on a dash of lemon juice prior to serving.

Garnish with lemons.

Tuna–Sea Scallop Tartare

Healthy and tasty, this dish can be served as an appetizer, atop greens, or alone, in a gorgeous glass bowl for a light meal. A highly requested special at The Lakefront, Frederic often spices it up with jalapeños.

Serve with Almond-Parmesan Sablé Crackers (recipe follows) and yellow frisée.

Ingredients to serve four

4 ounces diced sashimi-grade tuna, deveined and denerved 4 ounces diced fresh sea scallops 2 shallots, finely chopped ½ tablespoon cracked coriander 1 egg yolk 2 teaspoons olive oil Juice of 1 lemon Salt and white pepper to taste 2 green onions, finely chopped 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard 4 branch pieces yellow frisée

Preparation time: 15 minutes

In a large bowl, combine tuna, sea scallops, and all other ingredients at once. Mix well with hands or soft spatula to avoid tearing meat.

Serve in a decorative glass bowl lined with frisée for color and texture, and accompany with homemade Almond-Parmesan Sablé Crackers.

You may also choose to serve on plate atop a bed of butter lettuce.

Almond-Parmesan Sablé Crackers

A wonderful accompaniment to Tuna–Sea Scallop Tartare (previous page). And also good with Old-Fashioned Tomato Soup (page 23)!

Ingredients to serve four

½ cup freshly grated parmesan ½ cup flour ½ cup almonds ½ cup butter 1 whole egg 1 egg yolk A pinch of salt A pinch of sugar

Preparation time: 2 hours 40 minutes

Combine parmesan, flour, and almonds in a food processor. Process until it becomes a paste. Add butter, egg and egg yolk, salt, and sugar, and process again until dough forms a ball. Remove dough from processor, place in a bowl, and cover with plastic wrap. Let rest in refrigerator for 2 hours.

Roll out chilled dough with pastry roller to about 1/8-inch thickness. This will create a crisp, light cracker.

Cut rolled dough into any size or shape you like. Place on baking sheet, and bake at 350° until golden brown and baked through—from 15 to 20 minutes, depending on size and shape. Remove from oven and place on pastry rack to cool and become crisp.

Hummus

This versatile dish is a traditional Greek favorite and hearty appetizer. It can also be served as a spread or base on sandwiches.

Fred muses that he is at once excited and disappointed by the impact of the Americanization of international foods. Hummus is a prime example, as you can now readily find it premade on grocery shelves with added flavors such as red pepper or artichoke. He says stick with fresh, homemade ingredients and you will rarely go wrong.

Ingredients to serve six

1 (15-ounce) can garbanzo beans, drained 1 ½ teaspoons cumin 1 teaspoon crushed garlic Salt to taste 1/8 cup lemon juice ½ teaspoon white pepper Approximately ¼ cup olive oil (add until you reach desired texture)

Preparation time: 20 minutes

Pour all ingredients except olive oil into food processor. Mix slightly. Then pulse while adding the olive oil in slowly. The hummus should be creamy and stand on its own—not too runny.

Serve with pita chips; alternatively, slice flour tortillas into sixths, bake until firm, and use as chips.

Porc Paté Lorraine

This versatile dish is a mainstay in the Lorraine region of Alsace, where Fred grew up. In his exuberant youth, after a night of clubbing, he and his friends often went looking for a boulangerie (open because baking had already started) and enjoyed this delicacy fresh from the oven. A great hangover food, Chef admits.

Slice and serve warm from the oven, or after it has cooled to room temperature. A terrific appetizer or entrée.

Ingredients to serve six

1 pound of pork shoulder 3 large shallots, chopped 1 branch of fresh thyme, stripped (use the leaves) 1 teaspoon chopped parsley 1 glass dry Alsatian Riesling Salt and white pepper to taste 1 large sheet of puff pastry (or 2 to 3 small) 1 egg 1 teaspoon milk

Preparation time: 40 minutes the day before, and 1 hour the day of serving

Remove excess fat and nerves (silvery muscle sheathing) from pork shoulder, and dice meat into ¼-inch pieces. Add shallots, thyme, parsley, Riesling, and salt and pepper. Mix well and reserve in a covered bowl in refrigerator overnight, stirring occasionally.

Defrost your puff pastry sheet and lay flat. Spread the cold marinated pork mixture along one side of the pastry dough, taking up about one-half of the pastry sheet and leaving an edge clear on three sides to seal the pastry.

Fold over the dough and meet the edges, sealing them by pinching with your fingers. Whisk the egg and milk together and, using a pastry brush, glaze the top of the pastry with the mixture. To allow steam to escape, slice two holes along the top, making a decoration of your choice.

Place in preheated 400° oven on a baking sheet for approximately 20 minutes or until golden brown. Remove and slice to desired sizes. Serve with green salad and a glass of Alsatian Riesling.

Summer Crudités Platter with Sauce Verte

This easy party dish should be prepared the day of with fresh ingredients of the season. Hummus can also be used as a dipping choice.

Ingredients for a party platter

Crudités:

Sweet dill pickle cornichons Hard-boiled eggs Assorted olives Assorted seasonal raw vegetables: Cauliflower Fire-roasted red peppers Broccoli Baby carrots Green beans Petite ripe tomatoes Green onions

Sauce Verte:

Chop 1/8 to 1/3 cup of each to taste: Parsley Basil Tarragon Chives Mint 2 cloves garlic Olive oil 2 anchovies 2 slices white bread Salt and white pepper to taste

Preparation time: 30 minutes

Dressing: Finely chop together the parsley, basil, tarragon, chives, mint, and garlic in a food processor. Blend in the olive oil and anchovies. Add bread to thicken slightly and then salt and pepper to taste.

Crudités: Wash (peel if necessary) and cut the vegetables into bite-sized morsels. Arrange on a large, beautiful platter, and place dressing in bowl to accompany. Serve cool and fresh!

Pear Mint Chutney—an Accompaniment

The unique blend of fruit and herb brings wonderful flavor and color to grilled pork. An overabundance of ripened pears and the sight of the overgrown mint in his yard inspired Fred to create this memorable sauce. Fresh available food + cost savings = success!

Ingredients to serve eight

2 tablespoons low-grade olive oil 1 red onion, finely chopped 7 pears, seasonally ripe (your preference of variety), finely chopped A pinch of thyme 1 cup brown sugar 2 cups balsamic vinegar 1 red bell pepper Chopped mint to taste (approximately 2 tablespoons)

Preparation time: 20 minutes

Heat olive oil in a large fry pan until very hot. Add onion, pears, thyme, and brown sugar, and cook until soft, for at least 5 minutes. Add balsamic vinegar, and stir while boiling to reduce liquid. When close to consistency of salsa, add red pepper and mint. Continue to reduce until it reaches the texture of salsa. Refrigerate and serve cold as an accompaniment to sausages or pork chops.

Soup du Jour

Cabernet Sauvignon Peppered Shellfish Bisque

Fred happily recommends the gathering of the basic materials for this dish: before you can save the shells, you must first eat the shellfish! Store shells and casings in a strong plastic bag in your freezer until you have a sufficient amount for the recipe. The taste of your bisque will change depending on the kinds of shells you use. More lobster? More shrimp or crab? It's all good. And bon appétit during the months of preparation!

Ingredients to serve eight

2 pounds shellfish shells in plastic freezer storage bag 1 large onion, chopped 1 leek, cleaned and chopped 1 carrot 2 tablespoons butter 1 bottle Cabernet Sauvignon of your choice 2 teaspoons cracked black pepper Salt to taste 1 ½ cups water 1 bouquet garni 2 cups cream 1 teaspoon cornstarch 2 teaspoons chives, chopped Baguette croutons

Preparation time: 1 hour 15 minutes

Leave the shells in their plastic bag, and use a hammer or heavy object to crush them into small pieces. In a soup pot, combine onion, leek, carrot, pepper, and crushed shells. Sauté in butter until brown.

When vegetables are sautéed to a golden brown, add wine, water, and bouquet garni, and salt lightly. Let simmer and slightly reduce until all the flavors are melded, approximately 30 to 40 minutes. You should have about half the liquid you started with.

Strain broth through a fine, mesh sieve and reserve liquid only. Return broth to pot on stove, add cream, and bring to a boil. Mix cornstarch with cold water in a small bowl, and add to soup as it is beginning to boil. When it reaches a full boil, turn down heat to low, and cook until the bisque is desired thickness. Salt to taste.

Serve hot in bowl with chives sprinkled on top and crostini for accompaniment.

Oxtail Soup—Traditional Bowling Alley–Style

Finding amazing food in unusual places is part of the joy of travelling with Fred. On a trip to Honolulu for my brother's wedding, we discovered a little bowling alley filled to the brim with locals every morning. After trying the most popular breakfast dish, Fred had to make it his way. The recipe follows. No ka 'oi! (It's the best!)

Ingredients to serve six

1 oxtail, cut into bite-sized pieces and trimmed of excess fat 8 cups light beef broth ½ pound beef shin (shank), cut into bite-sized pieces 2 pieces dried tangerine peel Small piece fresh ginger Salt to taste 1 small Chinese turnip (lor buk), cut into 2-inch lengths 1 medium carrot, cut into 2-inch lengths 1 white onion, peeled and quartered Few star anise Dash of galangal Chopped scallion Peanuts

Preparation time: 2 hours

Plunge oxtail into boiling water to remove excess fat and meat impurities. Refresh under cold running water. Place meat in a pot with broth. Add tangerine peel, ginger, star anise, and salt, and simmer for 1 hour. Add Chinese turnip, carrot, and onion, and gently simmer for another hour or more, until meat falls off the bone.

Serve in a large soup bowl, and garnish with scallions and peanuts.

Accompany with hot mustard, soy sauce, hot chili paste, and chopped fresh cilantro.

To-Die-For French Onion Soup Gratiné

For his restaurant, Fred gently tones down the traditional French style of this dish, which is very hearty—thick in consistency and beefy in flavor. The need for revision to suit American tastes became apparent in a wonderful little bistro in Beaune, France, as Fred and I were heading off on our honeymoon. We were joined at the table by our good friends, Brian and Piper. Piper ordered the onion soup, and when it arrived, she was taken aback by the chunky, porridge-like consistency. Although she was a trooper about it, it was obvious that the traditional "chewy" version of this classic would challenge most Americans. This experience inspired Fred to create a recipe that remains unrivaled.

Ingredients to serve six

2 large yellow onions, peeled and sliced 4 cups water 3 cups beef stock 1 cup red wine 2 teaspoon brown sugar Salt Freshly cracked black pepper 2 bay leaves Sprig fresh thyme 1 teaspoon cornstarch

To Top:

6 slices (1 slice each bowl) of french bread crostini 1 cup shredded gruyère cheese, divided

Preparation time: 2 hours 30 minutes

In a large pot, place butter, onions, and brown sugar over high heat, and cook until onions are caramelized to a nice dark brown—the deep color is very important for this dish. Next, add beef stock, wine, water, salt and pepper, bay leaves, and thyme. Bring to boil and then reduce heat and cook slowly for about an hour and a half.

Add beef bouillon, and salt and pepper to taste. For a slightly thicker consistency, mix cornstarch in a small bowl of cold water and pour into soup. Continue to reduce the liquid until it is the consistency you prefer.

Place hot soup into serving bowls, and set on baking sheet. Top with crostini and cheese, and place under broiler for a few minutes or until cheese is melted. Serve immediately.

(Continues...)

Excerpted from Chef Frederic's Bestby Deborah Pierrel Copyright © 2010 by Deborah Pierrel. Excerpted by permission of iUniverse, Inc.. All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced or reprinted without permission in writing from the publisher.
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