Today's market shelves are lined with unique varieties of rice from all over the world. Join noted cookbook author and Bon Appétit columnist Marie Simmons on a journey through the amazing world of rice -- from learning how to select the right type of rice for every dish to the best ways to prepare each kind.

The Amazing World of Rice

Morrow Cookbooks

Chicken and Rice Pilaf with Toasted Almonds and Golden Raisins, Istanbul-Style

Makes 4 Servings

Chicken thighs instead of chicken breasts guarantee tender, juicy morsels of meat. I prefer golden raisins in this pilaf because they are plumper and a little less sweet than dark ones, although either can be used. (Both are made from Thompson seedless grapes, but they are dehydrated by a difference process.) Or, if preferred, substitute diced dried apricots. With steamed green beans or broccoli, this pilaf is hearty enough to be a main dish.

Ingredients

3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 medium onion, cup into 1/4-inch wedges
1 pound boneless, skinless chicken thigh (about 6), cut into 1/2-inch pieces
1 garlic clove, minced
4 cups reduced-sodium chicken broth
2 teaspoons Madras-style curry powder
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 1/2 cups uncooked Baldo, Arborio, or other medium-grain white rice
1/2 cup golden raisins
1 cinnamon stick
1/2 cup sliced natural (skin-on) almonds, toasted

Instructions

1. Heat the oil in a large wide saucepan or deep skillet. Add the onion; cook, stirring, over medium-low heat, until golden, about 10 minutes. Add the chicken and garlic. Sauté until the chicken is no longer pink, about 5 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, heat the chicken broth almost to a boil.

3. Sprinkle the chicken with the curry powder and salt and pepper; cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Stir in the rice, raisins, and cinnamon stick until blended. Add the hot chicken broth. Heat to a boil; stir once. Cook, covered, until almost all the liquid is absorbed, about 15 minutes.

4. Sprinkle the pilaf with the toasted almonds and serve.

Baked Lemon-Custard Rice Pudding

Makes 8 Servings

This is my grandmother's recipe. Tender custard envelops each plump grain of rice. Use leftover cooked rice: 1 1/2 cups cooked white rice yields a high custard-to-rice ratio; 3 cups cooked rice makes a stiffer but still creamy pudding; or adjust the amount between the two.

Ingredients

1 tablespoon unsalted butter, at room temperature
1 1/2 to 3 cups cooked long-grain white rice (see headnote)
1/2 cup dark or golden raisins, optional
6 cups whole milk
1 vanilla bean or 2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract
6 large eggs, at room temperature
1 cup sugar
1 tablespoon grated lemon zest
Freshly grated nutmeg

Instructions

1. Preheat the oven to 325°F. Generously butter a 13 X 9-inch baking dish with the butter. Set it in a larger baking pan. Set a kettle of water on to heat.

2. Spread the rice and raisins, if using, in the buttered baking dish. Pour the milk into a large saucepan; add the vanilla bean, if using. Heat the milk until small bubbles appear around the edges. Remove from the heat. If you used the vanilla bean, let steep, covered, for 10 minutes.

3. Beat the eggs and sugar in a large bowl until foamy. If using the vanilla bean, remove it from the scalded milk; carefully split the bean and scrape the soft center into the milk. Discard the pod. Gradually whisk the milk into the beaten eggs until blended. Add the lemon zest and the vanilla extract, if using.

4. Pour half the custard mixture over the raisins and rice in the baking dish; stir to distribute evenly. Place the larger baking pan on the center oven rack; pour remaining custard mixture into baking dish. Sprinkle the top evenly with nutmeg.

5. Carefully pour enough very hot water into the larger baking pan to come halfway up the sides of the baking dish. Bake for 1 hour and 15 minutes, or until the custard is almost set and the edges are golden. Let the pudding cool in the water bath. Serve at room temperature or chilled, cut into squares.

Excerpted from The Amazing World of Riceby Simmons, Marie Copyright © 2004 by Marie Simmons. Excerpted by permission.
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