CHAPTER 1

A to Z Guide to Living andWorking in Saudi Arabia

A

Arabic

Arabic is the official language of the kingdom of Saudi Arabia,although English is spoken widely throughout. In many places andbusinesses for everyday activities, such as traveling, shopping, andordering food, there are English-speaking salespeople. Arabic forme was a bit hard to learn, as there are so many Arabs from otherArabic-speaking countries who live and work in Saudi Arabia andspeak many variations of the language. There are at least threedifferent versions of Arabic, which includes modern Arabic, classicArabic, and colloquial Arabic. The Arabic that you encounter maybe any one or all of the three. There are several different provincesin the kingdom, and each province speaks Arabic differently.

There are many sources available for those of you who want tolearn how to speak Arabic. You can purchase a number of greatbooks that will help you to learn basic expressions, such as givinggreetings, asking for travel advice, and ordering food. The mosthelpful way I learned to speak Arabic was working in the hospitalsand visiting the homes of Saudi families. In other words, interactingwith the people helped me learn the language most effectively. Andalthough I do not speak Arabic fluently, I can now at least say a fewwords and speak a few sentences that are helpful when dealingwith patients and their families and traveling around.

Remember that learning a new language can be an invaluableasset. Here are a few Arabic words to get you started:

Aiwa: Yes

La: No

Salam Alakam: Formal hello

Hammam: Bathroom

Kafalik: Informal hello

Maasalama: Good-bye

Min Fadlaik: Please

Felos: Money

Shookran: Thanks

B

Bedouin

The word Bedouin for me conjures up images of the classic movieLawrence of Arabia. Bedouins are essentially nomads who havemaintained their basic lifestyle for more than a thousand years.Some Bedouins today still live in the traditional tent dwelling thatwas a part of their lifestyle for centuries.

The traditional Bedouin tent is woven from goat's hair. When it rains,the weave contracts and doesn't let the water in. In the heat of thesummer the outside of the tent feels very hot to the touch while theinside remains cool. In the winter when it is cold outside, the reverseis true when a small fire is kept inside, and the tent stays warm.

When a Bedouin family moved, the tent was dismantled, rolled up,and put on male pack camels. Moves were usually dictated only bythe need to stay close to water or to forage for the flocks of sheep,goats and camels, so the site of the next camp was always in thevicinity of a well or ungrazed land. Pitching the tent was one of theBedouin women's main responsibilities, with each individual jobstrictly divided among members of the family. Raising the maintent poles was the work of men, but young girls usually drove thetent pegs. The whole operation, honed to perfection by centuriesof practice, went according to a drill as rigid as a military maneuver,with the head of the family acting as top sergeant.

A guest is always welcome in the Bedouin home. Many will tell youthat they feel their houses are like poor homes without guests. Andbecause guests come from God, the Bedouin will never make thempay for anything they need. In fact, they will pay all the costs withpleasure.

And also inside their homes or tents you will see the smiles on theirfaces when they have new guests. You will sit and have a cup of teawith fresh mint. You will undoubtedly feel the warmth of their heartsdirected at you. Today many modern Saudi families also have tentsout in the desert where they gather on weekends for holidays orjust to meet and entertain their family and friends.

Remember to never give up the opportunity to socialize with thelocals, as it will be an amazing experience.

C

Camel

The camel, which has come to symbolize many aspects of life in theMiddle East, is still very much a part of life in the kingdom. In thepast the camel served many purposes and was a sign of prosperityfor many families during the early days of the kingdom.

In a sense the camel is passing into history—at least in SaudiArabia. Though there are still herds to be seen, the era of thegreat camel caravans has passed, and throughout the ArabianPeninsula the effects (to those who notice) are evident in thingssuch as untended desert wells and abandoned caravan routes.Soon hundreds of centuries of tradition will have vanished.

It was the Arabs, however, who came to realize and develop the fullpotential of the camel. Indeed, without the camel the entire historyof the Arab world might have been quite different. Domestication ofthe camel enabled early Arabs to explore and master the desertsof the Middle East, develop and monopolize the ancient traderoutes between southern Arabia and the Mediterranean, establishmercantile networks and centers in northern and central Arabia,and later after the rise of Islam carry their faith to the bordersof China, North Africa, and France. Because of the camel, Arabarmies could move swiftly and unexpectedly across terrain that theyonce thought was impenetrable by distant enemies. And thoughattacks were often made on horseback, once the camel saddlewas developed to the point where riders could use them effectively,camels became important as well.

The camel was also a vital element in the daily life and the cultureof the Bedouin. It was his chief source of food, raw materials,transport, and wealth. Until recent times the desert dweller drankthe camel's milk, feasted on its meat, fashioned rope from its wool,made shields and water buckets from its skin, bound woodensaddles together with its sinews, burned its droppings as fuel, andeven turned to it for medicines (Cruz, 1990).

Today in a few places throughout the kingdom camels are stillraised for food—milk and meat—and for racing but rarely fortransport. Camels can't compete with the cross-peninsula Boeings,fast freight trains and trailer trucks that by 1980 provided most ofthe transportation for Saudi Arabia's goods and passengers.

Remember to visit one of the camel souks and take a fun but bumpyride.

D

Desert

Many people still think of Saudi Arabia as a huge barren desertoccupied by Bedouins in tents moving from place to place insearch of water and food. Saudi Arabia is indeed a part of theArabian Peninsula, which is largely a desert. It is surrounded byJordan to the North, the United Arab Emirates to the East, andYemen in the South. The kingdom is surrounded by two bodies ofwater—the Red Sea to the west and the Arabian Gulf to the east.Interestingly enough, if you explore the country, you will find thatthere are mountains, oases, and beautiful coastal areas. Al-Khobar,where I lived, has a beautiful cornice that boasts a host of westernrestaurants and coffee shops as it is a perfect place to unwind andwatch an evening sunset. Jeddah, on the other hand, which stillremains as a bustling seaport and route to the holy city of Makkahand Medina, also has a cornice with beautiful coffee and Shishashops.

Today the Saudi people really enjoy a modern and bustling lifestylemuch as anywhere else in the world, especially in the largercities, such as Jeddah, Dammam, and Riyadh. They have builtmodern homes that rival some of the homes even in the West. Thesustainable water management system has allowed the country tomove very rapidly into the modern age.

The temperatures in the Arabian Desert are arid and dry withtemperatures ranging from around 7 degrees Celsius in the wintermonths to around 50 degrees Celsius in the summer months. Thereare many sandstorms that make visibility, breathing, or even beingoutside unmanageable.

Remember to bring the right clothing because the winters can bevery cold.

E

Etiquette

The very first day that I attended my department orientation to meetwith my boss, I reached out to shake his hand, and he declined.I did not realize that I was not supposed to shake a man's hand.Thus, this was my first lesson in Saudi etiquette. Etiquette is yourticket to enjoying the best social experience in the kingdom of SaudiArabia. Social interaction in the kingdom is marked by strong gendersegregation and respect for gender differences. Men and womenseldom interact across the gender divide outside the domesticspace of families, and many of the society's most powerful dos anddon'ts aim to regulate such interaction beyond the confines of ahome. Thus, male-female interaction in a commercial shop shouldbe formal and strictly limited to the process of buying and selling,although in the work environment interactions are a little bit morerelax for the sake of cooperation in the workplace. Generally men andwomen should refrain from making specific references to individualsof the other gender, although it is appropriate and common forone to inquire about the well-being of another individual's family orhome—concepts that are understood as greetings for others of theopposite gender. Deference should be shown to those who are older,and relations between generations are often characterized by strictformality and the maintenance of decorum in social gatherings.

Most social interaction between Saudis and their guests takesplace in groups that are gender- and age-specific. Social visitingwithin such contexts is very common and occurs on both aneveryday basis and during special events. The latter especiallyinclude visits to convey condolences for a death or, conversely, toexpress congratulations for a happy occurrence like a wedding, agraduation, a promotion, or a safe return from a trip. A guest, uponarrival, should greet individually the host and all others presentby shaking hands or (if well-known to one another and of similarage) by kissing on the cheeks three or more times. The individualbeing greeted should stand. The guest will always be offeredrefreshments like coffee and tea. The offering of refreshments andthe exchange of greetings is extended to office and shop settings(at least among people of the same gender); failure to observethem is very rude. Meanwhile, gender segregation is maintained inpublic places, such as airports or banks, where separate lines formen and women are common.

People tend to remain in close physical contact during socialinteraction. Walking arm-in-arm or holding hands and gentlyslapping or touching a person's outstretched palm while talking iscommon, especially among people of the same gender who knoweach other well. Gazing and staring at strangers is consideredrude. Greater formality, however, prevails among Bedouin and ruralpeople, while more relaxed, informal interaction occurs among theyounger professionals. The same patterns, but in a more relaxedway, apply between local citizens and immigrants.

Remember to become familiar and follow the customs once you arrive.

F

Facts about Saudi Arabia

The kingdom of Saudi Arabia is an Islamic country and has amonarchy system of government.

The country's rulers are the Al-Saud family, which unified thecountry and still rules today.

First there was King Abdulaziz bin Abdelrahman Al-Saud, thefounder (1932-1963) followed by his sons, King Saud (1953-1964),King Faisal (1964-1975), King Khalid (1975-1982), King Fahd (19822005),and the current ruler, Custodian of the Two Holy Mosques,King Abdullah bin Abdulaziz.

It's the fourteenth largest country on earth. It is the sight of the twoholy mosques of Makkah and Medina. They have free public healthcare. Women are still not allowed to drive. The government doesnot collect taxes from its citizens. Working in the kingdom allowsexpatriates to earn tax-free money. Its main export is oil, and itsmain imports are machinery and vehicles.

Seventy-five percent of its population is younger than thirty-fiveyears old. The average age is eighteen years old. Twenty-onepercent of their population consists of expats.

Its largest city, Riyadh (population 4,193,000), is the sixty-ninthlargest city on earth by population. The current price of gasoline isforty-five cents per gallon. One dollar is equal to 3.75 Saudi riyals.

Remember that living and working in a foreign country requires thatyou know something about the place.

G

Ghawa

Ghawa or Arabic coffee is an absolute must and a sign of true Arabhospitality, and as well it is a symbol of closing a great businessdeal. Ghawa or Arabic coffee is a blend of Turkish coffee withvarious Indian spices like cardamom. Arabic coffee is a must-havein every Arab home and at work. Traditional ghawa is a very strongcoffee, and it is served best with dates and sweets. It is one of theofficial drinks during the holy month of Ramadan, and it is oftenused to break the fast. The coffee itself has a distinct aroma andtaste depending on how it is made. Some people add a little milk togive it a lighter color. Nonetheless, it is a really nice coffee to havewith sweets and a conversation.

Remember to please have some ghawa or Arabic coffee along thejourney.

H

Hubbly Bubbly (Shisha)

In recent years shisha (hookah or hubbly bubbly) has made areemergence outside the traditional shisha-smoking countries,especially with those not of Middle Eastern descent. In fact, theshisha is very much in vogue in the Western cultures today. Shishasmoking is a tradition that dates back hundreds of years.

For those of you not au fait with the shisha, it essentially is a waterpipe used for smoking purposes, originating about five hundredyears ago. The tobacco is heated by coals, and the smoke is purifiedand cooled through the water, after which it emerges through thesuction tube, where it is smoked. The shisha ranges from the mini(usually bought by tourists who probably won't smoke it again) tothe regular meter-high contraptions to the two-meter monsters thatgrace some of the cafes. Flavors vary from the popular apple (anddouble apple), mint, strawberry, apricot, rose, and cool grape.

In Britain lifestyle revolves around the pub. In the Netherlands theyhave the coffee shop. And in the Middle East one of the socialhangouts is the shisha cafes. Men (and an increasing numberof women) get together to share gossip or conduct unofficialbusiness. Elders will usually indulge in a game with friends whilethey puff into the evening and sip on their Turkish coffee or minttea. The younger crowd will end up in the cafes after a night out.Indeed, smoking shisha has become a night out in its own right.As demonstrated more and more in the United States, youngsterskeen to go out will opt to go to a shisha bar for a smoke in thoseyears before alcohol is legal. And in most places where shisha issmoked, alcohol is a religious taboo, and thus this replacement ofenjoyment is particularly fun.

Remember that shisha is all about the social element. It's not whatyou put in your pipe but who you smoke it with. Rarely will you seea solo shisha smoker.

I

Iqama

The Iqama is the name of your residence and work permit for thekingdom of Saudi Arabia. Your Iqama should be with you and yourfamily at all times because it is the main thing that identifies youas a foreigner while you are residing in the country. The Iqamahas your picture, name, country of origin or nationality, profession,issue date, and expiration date.

Please keep it safe and protected at all times, as it is fairly expensiveto replace, and you, and not the company that you work for will haveto replace it. The Iqama is good for your stay inside the kingdom.Once you decide to travel outside of the kingdom, you will have toapply for and be issued an exit/reentry visa, which is fairly easy toobtain and will cost you a fee as well. Some companies will paythe fee for one exit/reentry visa annually. Your exit/reentry visadoes have an expiration date, so please be sure to keep an eye onthe date and renew it in time. If you travel with an expired visa, youmay not be allowed to get back into the kingdom, and this will be ahassle. You will have to contact your company inside the country,which will then have to try to replace this visa, and it may take upto a few days.

This is one of those little things that you will have to keep an eyeon because your company will not advise you or prompt you whenthis visa expires. You should get a six-month exit/reentry visa, asthis is also your ticket to travel on your days off.

Remember to keep your iqama safe at all times. It is your identificationwhile you are residing in the kingdom.

J

Jawal (Telephone)

Saudi Arabia is a place that is not shy with technology, and youcan buy any electronic device that you need once you arrive—everythingfrom mobile phones to personal tablets to anythingin between. The mobile phone is a must to communicate insideand outside of the kingdom, as most people rely on everyone elsehaving a mobile phone as well. Landlines are available but arerarely used outside of businesses. The mobile phones are veryhandy devices for the widely used social networking applications,such as WhatsApp, Viber, Tango, and Skype. Mobile phones arerelatively cheap and range from the simple flip phone to all thecoveted iPhone 5.