Meet the Designer

I simply love to design projects that make people smile. Even as a child, I enjoyed making things from paper, clay and fabric, and I began my creative adventure through 4-H Club.

I have been designing and creating projects for the creative industries for over 20 years.

I developed the Pearl Louise Designs pattern company in 1984. I have designed and produced more than 800 patterns for the quilt industry. I have written several craft and quilt books and have designed and produced kits for Annie's, Mary Maxim and Herrschners. The McCall's Pattern Company also produces some of my designs. Many of my designs are included in various quilt magazines.

I have also been a part of several videos including Everyday Embroidery© available through Annie's. Other videos can be seen on PBS, on the It's Sew Easy online program and on Quilting Arts TV.

I have designed gift lines for Seasons of Cannon Falls, Decorator Craft Corp and Wang's International. Several years ago I started designing fabric for the Troy Corp. in Chicago.

My hobbies include designing, reading, embroidery, fishing and spending time with my beautiful family.

Pearl Louise Krush

General Instructions

Redwork embroidery requires a few supplies and some simple instructions. Read through these basics before you select and begin stitching one or more of the whimsical projects in this book.

Supplies

Use good-quality, 100 percent cotton fabrics in your redwork quilts or projects. The projects in this book were made using white and cream tonals, but any white, off-white or cream-color high-quality cotton fabric may be used. Be sure to visit your stash to use up those white, cream and red fabrics you've been storing. These projects are very scrappy, so have tons of fun visiting and using up those scraps.

Prewashing your fabrics is recommended, but not absolutely necessary. If you choose not to prewash, you must test the fabrics to make sure that they are colorfast and won't shrink.

Start by cutting a 2" by fabric width strip of each fabric you have selected for your redwork project; measure and record the width of each strip.

To determine whether the fabric is colorfast, immerse each strip separately into a clean bowl of extremely hot water or hold the fabric strip under hot running water. If your fabric bleeds a great deal, all is not necessarily lost. You might be able to wash all of that fabric until all of the excess dye has washed out. Fabrics that continue to bleed after they have been washed several times should be eliminated. You do not want the red fabrics bleeding onto the embroidered squares.

To test for shrinkage, iron each saturated strip dry with a hot iron. When the strip is completely dry, measure and compare the size to the original recorded length. If one of the fabrics shrinks more than the others, it should be eliminated. If there is a lot of variety in shrinkage, it's best to wash and dry all of the fabrics before beginning so that the shrinkage is no longer an issue.

Needles

There are several different types and sizes of needles that can be used for embroidery. Sharps — (sizes 7–10) and embroidery needles (sizes 7 and 8 with a longer eye for easier threading) are popular. You should choose the size and type of needle you are comfortable with to do your embroidery.

Embroidery Floss

Six-strand cotton embroidery floss was used to embroider the designs in these redwork projects. Work with 2 strands in 18" lengths. I used 2 strands for most areas on the projects and 1 strand for tiny designs such as facial features. I used DMC colors 816 (garnet) and 817 (very dark coral red) on the projects featured. Make sure the embroidery floss is colorfast.

Embroidery Hoops

The best embroidery results are achieved when an embroidery hoop is used to hold the fabric taut while stitching. There are several types and sizes of hoops available on the market. Wooden hoops with an adjustable screw are the most common, but there are also spring tension hoops and Q-Snap frames. Use the type and size hoop or frame that you find most comfortable for embroidering. It is best to use a hoop that is larger than the design you are embroidering, if possible. This helps avoid distorting stitches when the hoop is moved from one area to another.

Redwork Embroidery

Tracing the Design

Cut the fabric that is to be embroidered into the size specified with each project's instructions.

Center the fabric over the printed design and trace, using a sharp lead pencil or fabric marking pen. If you cannot see the design lines clearly through the fabric, use a light box or window for tracing. Remember that the traced lines should not be visible when embroidery is completed. If you use a fabric marking pen be sure to follow the manufacturer's directions for proper use and removal.

Embroidering the Design

Wash your hands before you start hand embroidery to avoid soiling the fabric. Thread floss into the needle, tying a small knot at one end. When there are only a few inches of floss remaining, tie off by weaving the needle through several stitches on the back of the fabric to form a knot. Cut off the excess floss.

When you embroider separate lines in a close area, it is best to carry the floss across the back as long as the distance is not more than 1". If the lines are more than 1" apart, tie off and start again.

Never carry floss across a large unworked area. The floss will show through on the front of the finished project.

The Stitches

Stem Stitch

The stem stitch is the main stitch used to embroider redwork designs.

To execute the stem stitch, bring the needle up at position 1. Hold floss down with thumb of your non-stitching hand. Reinsert the needle at 2 and bring up at 3, about halfway between 1 and 2.

Pull the floss through and continue in this manner with the floss held below the stitching line, working from left to right.

Backstitch

The backstitch may be used to cover tight curves and can also be used to outline designs, if desired.

To execute the backstitch, bring the needle up at 1, a stitch length away from the beginning of the design line. Stitch back down at 2, at the beginning of the line. Bring the needle up at 3 and then stitch back down to meet previous stitch at 1. Continue in this manner, working from right to left.

Straight Stitch

The straight stitch was used to cover small straight lines. Straight stitches can be worked in various lengths as long as they are spaced regularly.

To make a straight stitch, come up at 1 and down at 2.

French Knots

French knots were used for eyes and for other small dots in the designs.

To make a French knot, bring needle up at 1. Wrap floss once around shaft of needle. Insert point of needle at 2 (close to, but not into 1). Hold knot down as you pull the needle through to back of fabric.

Centering and Squaring the Embroidered Design

1. Place painter's tape on the wrong side of a large square ruler, masking off the required width and height of the design.

2. Place the ruler right side up on the stitched design with the taped-off corner aligned with the top left corner of the design.

3. Center the design within the taped-off area of the ruler.

4. Trim the right and bottom edges of the design even with the edges of the ruler.

5. Turn the design, match the taped edges to the trimmed edges of the design, and trim the left and top edges.

Finishing the Embroidered Block

When embroidery is completed, you may wash it in cool water if soiled. Place the embroidered panel right side down on a hard, padded surface (ironing board with terry towel works fine); press carefully.

Trim panel to measurement specified in individual project instructions, making sure to center the design.

Finishing Your Quilts

Prepare batting and backing larger than the quilt top. For bed-size quilts, we suggest batting and backing should be 8" larger than the quilt. For smaller projects, add 4"–6" to the project size to prepare backing and batting.

Quilting

1. Press quilt top on both sides and trim all loose threads.

2. On a flat surface, make a quilt sandwich by layering the backing right side down, the batting on top of the backing and then the quilt top centered right side up on the batting. Make sure each layer is flat and smooth. Pin or baste layers together to hold.

3. Use a nonpermanent marking tool to mark quilting design on quilt top. Quilt as desired by hand or machine. Note: If you are sending a bedsize quilt to a professional quilter, contact the quilter for specifics about preparing your quilt for quilting.

4. When quilting is complete, remove pins or basting. Trim batting and backing edges even with raw edges of quilt top.

Binding

1. Join binding strips on short ends with diagonal seams to make one long strip; trim seams to ¼" and press seams open

2. Fold 1" of one short end to wrong side and press. Fold the binding strip in half with wrong sides together along length, again referring to Figure 1; press.

3. Starting about 3" from the folded short end of the binding, sew binding to quilt-top edge, matching raw edges and using a ¼" seam. Stop stitching ¼" from corner and backstitch (Figure 2).

4. Fold binding up at a 45-degree angle to seam and then down even with next quilt-top edge, forming a pleat at the corner, referring to Figure 3.

5. Resume stitching from corner as shown in Figure 3, down quilt side, backstitching ¼" from next corner. Repeat, mitering all corners, stitching to within 3" of starting point.

6. Trim binding end long enough to tuck inside starting end and complete stitching (Figure 4).

7. Fold binding to quilt back and stitch in place by hand or machine to complete your quilt.

Tea Towels

Skill Level

Confident Beginner

Finished Size:

Tea Towel Size: 20" x 30"

Materials

• ¼ yard red print
• 5/8 yard red-and-cream stripe
• 3 off-white 20" x 30" tea towels
• Thread
• Red embroidery floss
• Embroidery hoop and needle
• Basic sewing tools and supplies

Project Notes

Read all instructions before beginning this project.

Stitch right sides together using a ¼" seam allowance unless otherwise specified.

Refer to General Instructions for specific construction tips and redwork techniques.

Materials and cutting lists assume 40" of usable fabric width.

Cutting

From red print:

• Cut 3 (2" by fabric width) strips. Subcut strips into 3 (2" x 21½") A strips.

From red-and-cream stripe:

• Cut 6 (2½" by fabric width) strips. Subcut strips into 6 (2½" x 21½") B strips.

Completing the Redwork

1. Prewash, dry and press tea towels.

2. Center and trace a tea towel redwork design 4½" from the bottom end of each tea towel.

3. Complete redwork and press to remove hoop creases.

Completing the Tea Towels

1. Fold and press three B strips wrong sides together lengthwise.

2. Referring to Figure 1, place a folded B strip on top of an A strip with raw edges aligned; stitch in place on the top raw edge.

3. Press B up away from A with seam allowance behind A.

4. Place an unfolded B strip right sides together with the A-B unit as shown in Figure 2. Stitch on the long bottom edge; press B down away from A with seam allowance behind A.

5. Turn the short ends of the pieced strip under ¼" and press.

6. Referring to Figure 3, place the pieced strip on an embroidered towel with the top folded B edge 3½" up from the bottom edge of the towel and the pressed-under ends of the strip extending ½" beyond the towel side edges; pin in place.

7. Fold the ends of the strip over the side edges to the back side of the towel as shown in Figure 4; pin in place. Machine-stitch ¼" from the side edges of the towel to hem.

8. Press the long raw edge of the bottom B strip under ¼". Fold the strip around the bottom end of the towel to the back side as shown in Figure 5; pin in place.

9. Referring to Figure 6, machine-stitch in the seam along the top and bottom edges of the A strip, catching the edge of the B strip on the back to finish one tea towel.

10. Repeat steps 2–9 to complete the two remaining tea towels.

Wall Hangings

Skill Level

Confident Beginner

Finished Size

Wall Hanging Size: 10" x 15"

Materials

Materials and cutting instructions are for two wall hangings.

• Scraps four different red tonals
• Fat eighth each white and cream tonal
• Fat quarter white tonal
• ½ yard red print
• Backing to size
• Batting to size
• Red embroidery floss
• Embroidery hoop and needle
• Basic sewing tools and supplies

Project Notes

Read all instructions before beginning this project.

Stitch right sides together using a ¼" seam allowance unless otherwise specified.

Refer to General Instructions for specific construction tips and redwork techniques.

Materials and cutting lists assume 40" of usable fabric width for yardage, 20" for fat eighths and 21" for fat quarter.

Cutting

From each red tonal scrap:

• Cut 2 (2½") A squares.

From each white & cream tonal fat eighth:

• Cut 2 (1½" x 20") strips. Subcut strips into 16 (1½") B squares.

From red print: • Cut 3 (1½" by fabric width) strips. Subcut strips into 6 (1½" x 8½") C strips and 4 (1½" x 15½") D strips.

• Cut 4 (2¼" by fabric width) binding strips.

Completing the Redwork

1. Select two redwork designs from the Blizzard Buddies Quilt. Sample was made with Designs 1 and 2.

2. Fold the white tonal fat quarter into two equal sections and press.

3. Center, trace and stitch the selected designs onto the sections.

4. Press and trim each stitched section to 8½" x 10½" with design centered to complete two embroidered panels.

Completing the Pieced Rows

1. Draw a diagonal line on the wrong side of each B square.

2. Referring to Figure 1, position a cream B square right sides together on one corner of an A square. Stitch on drawn line. Trim leaving a ¼" seam allowance. Flip open and press. Repeat, stitching a cream B square to the opposite corner of the A square.

3. Referring to Figure 2, repeat step 2 with white B squares on the two remaining corners of A to complete one A-B unit.

4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 to make a total of eight A-B units.

5. Join four A-B units to make a pieced row as shown in Figure 3; press. Repeat to make a second pieced row.

Assembling the Wall Hangings

Refer to the Assembly Diagrams for positioning of the pieced rows, embroidered panels and strips.

1. Sew a C strip to top and bottom of a pieced row; press. Sew a C strip to the top of an embroidered panel; press.

2. Join the sashed units to complete the pieced center; press.

3. Stitch D strips to opposite long sides of pieced center to complete wall hanging top; press.

4. Repeat steps 1–3 to complete the second wall hanging top.

5. Layer, quilt and bind referring to General Instructions. Models were machine-quilted with a meandering scroll pattern.

Table Runner

Skill Level

Confident Beginner

Finished Size

Table Runner Size: 40" x 14"

Block Size: 8" x 8"

Number of Blocks: 1

Materials

• Fat eighth dark red tonal
• Fat eighth red-and-white print
• Fat eighth medium red tonal
• 1/3 yard cream tonal
• 5/8 yard white tonal
• 5/8 yard dark red tonal
• Backing to size
• Batting to size
• Red embroidery floss
• Embroidery hoop and needle
• Basic sewing tools and supplies

Project Notes

Read all instructions before beginning this project.

Stitch right sides together using a ¼" seam allowance unless otherwise specified.

Refer to General Instructions for specific construction tips and redwork techniques.

Materials and cutting lists assume 41" of usable fabric width for yardage and 20" for fat eighths.

Cutting

From dark red tonal fat eighth:

• Cut 1 (3¼" x 20") strip. Subcut strip into 5 (3¼") B squares.

From red-and-white print fat eighth:

• Cut 1 (3¼" x 20") strip. Subcut strip into 5 (3¼") C squares.

From medium red tonal fat eighth: • Cut 2 (27/8" x 20") strips.

Subcut strips into 10 (2?") D squares.

From cream tonal:

• Cut 1 (2½" by fabric width) strip. Subcut strip into 4 (2½") A squares.

• Cut 3 (1½" by fabric width) strips. Subcut strips into 2 (1½" x 10½") G strips and 2 (1½" x 34½") H strips.

From white tonal:

• Cut 1 (12" by fabric width) strip. Subcut strip into 2 (12") squares for embroidery.

• Cut 1 (2½" by fabric width) strip. Subcut strip into 4 (2½") A squares.

From dark red tonal:

• Cut 6 (1½" by fabric width) strips. Subcut strips into 4 (1½" x 8½") E rectangles, 2 (1½" x 12½") I strips, 2 (1½" x 32½") F strips and 2 (1½" x 40½") J strips.

•Cut 3 (2¼" by fabric width) binding strips.

Completing the Redwork

1. Select two redwork designs from the Blizzard Buddies Quilt. Sample project used Designs 4 and 8.

2. Center, trace and stitch one design onto each of the 12" white tonal squares.

3. Press and trim each stitched piece to 8½" x 10½" with design centered to complete two embroidered panels.