Surfer's Code: 12 Simple Lessons for Riding Through Life - Tapa blanda

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Shaun Tomson was named one of the twenty-five most influential surfers of the twentieth century, and one of the sixteen greatest surfers of all time. He has created two multimillion-dollar clothing brands--Instinct and Solitude. He was born in Durban, South Africa, and now makes his home in Montecito, California.

Patrick Moser is the editor of Pacific Passages: An Anthology of Surf Writing (University of Hawai'i Press, 2008). He collaborated with Shaun Tomson on Surfer's Code: 12 Simple Lessons for Riding through Life and has written articles for The Surfer's Journal and Surfer. He currently teaches writing and French language at Drury University in Springfield, Missouri where he also offers a course on the history and culture of surfing.

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Shaun Tomson was at the pinnacle of his professional and personal life—a former world champion surfer, a successful entrepreneur of multimillion dollar clothing brands and an inspirational speaker—when his fifteen-year-old son, Mathew, died in a tragic accident. Drawing on the strength of lessons learned from his childhood in apartheid South Africa to competition in the world’s most dangerous waves, Tomson provides an inspirational account of facing life’s hardest challenges by looking toward the light that shines ahead. Tomson tells a story of terrible loss and miraculous rebirth. Surfer’s Code reveals that the lessons of a life spent surfing are the lessons of surfing through life: every moment holds the possibility of failure and tragedy, every moment the promise of success and happiness.

SHAUN TOMSON was born in Durban and went on to become one of the world’s best surfers. He competed on the Pro Tour for 16 years, winning 19 professional events including the World Title. During his competitive career he was at different stages both the youngest and oldest surfer to win a professional event. Tomson was listed as one of the25 most influential surfers of the century (Surfer 1999) and one of the 16 greatest surfers of all time (Surfing 2004). He is a business finance graduate from the University of Natal, and has created two successful multimillion-dollar clothing brands: Instinct in the ’80s and Solitude in the ’90s.

PATRICK MOSER has written articles for The Surfer’s Journal and Surfer. He edited Pacific Passages: An Anthology of Surf Writing and is currently Associate Professor of French at Drury University in Springfield, Missouri, where he teaches a course on the history and culture of surfing.

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Zambezi sharks are one of the world’s most dangerous predators. Essentially saltwater creatures, they have been known to swim more than six hundred miles upriver in search of prey. They thrive in shallow, murky waters and are particularly prevalent in my hometown of Durban, where they account for a very high percentage of attacks and fatalities. These days large nets strung out three hundred yards from shore protect the beach goers in Durban. But back in 1957, during a month now referred to as “Dark December,” seven swimmers were attacked by Zambezi sharks and five of them died.