Fortuny - Tapa dura

Mariano Fortuny was a designer of textiles and couture at the beginning of the 20th century. Born in Spain, he lived in Venice and showed his work there and in Paris. He specialized in spectacular luxury fabrics based on Reinaissance and Byzantine revival patters: double-cut velvets, gilded screenprinted silks and chiffons. His most famous creation was a unique plisse (hand-pleated) silk that clung sensuously to the body. His "Delphos" dress, made of this extraordinary cloth and based on ancient Green dress, was world-famous. Isadora Duncan and Eleanora Duse wore his dresses. Orson Welles made costumes from his textiles for his production of "Othello". Fortuny was also a celebrated designer of interior furnishings, theatre sets and costumes. Fortuny belongs in the pantheon of Art Nouveau and the Gilded Age, with Tiffany, Galle, the Pre-Raphaelites, Gustave Moreau, Whistler and William Morris. He was also an accomplished painter in the style of Moreau and the Macchiaioli (Italian Impressionists).His design house is still in operation and modern editions of his textiles, lamps and dresses are available. He has influenced succh current designers as Mary McFadden and Issey Miyake. This book offers a survey of his life and work.

Anne-Marie Deschodt is a freelance author living in Paris. doretta Davanzo Poli is curator of the Museum of Decorative Arts in Venice. A textile historian, she has written extensively on Venetian decorative arts and on the collections of Fortuny.