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Printed broadside (220 x 143 mm). Dated October 1920. Number handwritten in ink below the text. A little creased and rubbed at the edges, some toning, minor vertical crease from folding. Very good condition. Rare broadside laying out the new dress regulations for female Graduates at Oxford when the university was first fully opened to women in the autumn of 1920. No copies located in auction records or by WorldCat. Academic dress may now seem a minor issue, but it was deeply symbolic of women's full inclusion in the university community and was, ironically, dictated by a group of male administrators whose decisions were ripe for controversy. ¿The principals of the women¿s colleges would have preferred the usual Commoner¿s and Scholar¿s gowns, crowned by the customary mortarboard, but the Proctors disliked this type of headgear for women. Eventually the university authorities selected the soft square black cap, with its unfortunate habit of slipping over one eye, which was described at the time as ¿a judicious compromise between Portia and Nerissa¿. With masculine indifference to possible changes of fashion, the Vice-Chancellor and Proctors interpreted ¿subfusc¿ for women in terms of a white blouse, dark coat and skirt, black shoes and stockings, and a black tie. The senior women were directed to wear the same schoolgirl costume as their juniors, and, not surprisingly, cases of revolt occurred in the highest quarters. Mrs. Johnson declared that she had never worn a white blouse and would take her degree in a high-necked black dress - a decision which she carried out regardless of the Proctors. Some of the older tutors also felt self-conscious in this rapidly improvised academic uniform. Ruth Butler quotes one typical comment by the daughter of a don: ¿I have always felt myself belonging to the University and this feels rather like dressing up for a charade¿. For the young women among the number - almost a thousand - due to be matriculated that term by the new Vice-Chancellor, Dr. L. R. Farnell, Rector of Exeter, academic dress was all part of their new and glamorous status; they would hardly have believed that within a few years these symbols of equality would be seldom worn" (Brittain, The Women at Oxford, 1960). N° de ref. de la librería
Título: University of Oxford: Dress of Women Members...
Editorial: Oxford University
Año de publicación: 1920
Encuadernación: No Binding
Condición del libro: Very Good
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