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Book Binding Made Easy

Karen B. Moore

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ISBN 10: 1570020094 / ISBN 13: 9781570020094
Editorial: University Publishing House, Inc., 2006
Usado Condición: Fair
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Better World Books
Mishawaka, IN, Estados Unidos de America

Valoración 5 estrellas

Librería en AbeBooks desde: 3 de agosto de 2006


Shows definite wear, and perhaps considerable marking on inside. N° de ref. de la librería GRP69932760

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Detalles bibliográficos

Título: Book Binding Made Easy

Editorial: University Publishing House, Inc.

Año de publicación: 2006

Condición del libro: Fair

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Excellent book describes how to make hardcover books by hand. Starts with basic projects, then progresses to fullfledged hard covers. Lots of diagrams illustrate the techniques.

Excerpt. © Reprinted by permission. All rights reserved.:



Order of Work. Fold paper with end and waste sheets. Sew on tapes. Cut muslin for back. Cut and square boards to size. Attach boards. Cover. Paste down endpapers.

Folded sheets of blank paper can be used for the book. If an old single-section book is to be re-bound, remove the sewing or wire fastenings. Endpapers.-Place two folded papers round the section as endpapers and outside these a folded sheet of bond paper as a waste sheet. If decorative papers are used as endpapers, the two colored sides must face each other, so that when the outside papers are pasted on to the covers the fly pages facing them will be patterned to match. The book is now ready for sewing. Marking up for Sewing. The book must be marked up for tape sewing, as the five-hole sewing used in Exercise 1 would not be sufficiently strong. Use 1/2" tape or 1/2" strips of thin bookbinder's cloth. .G.CHART55.TIF;3.6";5.539";TIFF

Make a pencil mark on the back 3/4" from the head and tail ends. Divide the space between these marks into three equal parts and on either side of these two marks place dots so that the spaces I-2 and 3-4 are equal to the width of the tape to be used. Sewing. Thread a needle with a long piece of thread and stab through the marks to the inside of the section. Begin sewing at the head end mark on the inside of the section. Pass the needle out, leaving a 2" end, then in at 1, out at 2, in at 3 and out at 4 and in at the tail end mark. Then work back, out at 4, in at 3 and so on until in at 1. Tie the ends tightly and cut them off to 1/4". Draw 3" lengths of 1/2" tape through the loops 1-2 and 3-4, so that there is 1 1/2" of tape on each side of the stitches. Fasten these tapes to the outside of the waste sheet with glue or paste. Mulling. Cut a piece of mull-bookbinder's muslin or thin cambric, the exact height of the book and 3" wide. Fix this around the back of the section over the tapes to the waste paper. When the muslin is quite dry the book can be trimmed if necessary with knife and straight edge at head, tail and fore-edge. Cutting the Boards. Cut the boards from 8 oz. Davy board. They should be 1/4" longer than the book to allow for an overlap of 1/8" at head and tail. This overlap is called "the square of the book" and protects the edges of the pages. The boards should be 1/2" narrower than the width of the book to allow a wide joint at the back. Such a wide joint is pleasant and effective in a small book of one or two sections. Attaching the Boards. Cut off the waste sheets level with the ends of the muslin, i.e., leaving 1 1/2" on each side of the back. Slip a piece of waste paper under the remaining strip on one side of the book and glue the muslin with thin glue. Place one of the prepared covers in position, taking care that the squares at head, tail and fore-edge are all equal. Manipulate the board into its correct position while the glue is still wet, when the glue has set the board cannot be moved. Turn the book over and attach the other board in the same way. Leave under a weight until dry. Covering the Back. Cut a piece of bookbinder's cloth 3" wide and the height of the book + 1/2" turning at head and tail. The width of the strip will depend on the size of the book-the amount showing on each cover must be about one fifth of its total width. Draw a pencil line down the middle of the cloth on the wrong side. Glue the cloth and place the back of the closed book up to the pencil line, so that the 1 1/2" of cloth adheres to one cover. Turn the book over and attach the rest of the cloth to the other cover. Rub the thumb nail or a bone folder in the joint so that the edge of the board is true and square. To turn in the overlap at head and tail the 1/2" cloth turning must be placed between the waste sheet and the endpaper. Use a piece of waste paper to prevent the edges of the pages at the tail being soiled by the glued cloth while the head turning is being manipulated. Place the book under a weight until dry. Siding. Cut side covers of decorative paper to tone with the cloth used. The papers should overlap 1/2" at head, tail and fore-edge and cover the back strip of cloth for 1/16". Attach these sides, and mitre the corners. Pasting Down the Endpapers. Slip a waste sheet between the endpaper and the rest of the book. Paste the outside of the endpaper, giving special attention to the joint at the back of the book. Remove the waste sheet and close the cover down on to the endpaper. Use a folder to emphasize the joint. Turn the book over and paste down the other endpaper. Leave under a weight. The book must not be opened until the endpapers are dry. Add a label title. SIMPLE HOLLOW BACK BINDING. SQUARE BACK WITH FRENCH JOINT. CLOTH BACK AND CORNERS WITH CONTRASTING SIDES.

Order of Work. Pull book to pieces and knock out groove. Guard. Collate. Make endpapers. Sew on tapes. Square at head and glue up. Cut boards. Make and attach hollow back. Cover with cloth corners and back, hand-printed paper or cloth sides. Paste down endpapers.

This style is suitable for a book of several sections. Use an old book that has a sewed binding to practice on. It involves many new processes but is simplified here so that very little equipment is necessary. The book will be sewn on. Use 1/2" bookbinder's tape, 1/2" strips of bookbinder cloth or ordinary tape stiffened with thin glue and left to dry. No sewing frames are needed. Sewing on tapes can be done quite as well without frames as with them. It is not necessary to use sewing frames until flexible binding is attempted.

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