Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life (Thorndike Press Large Print Biographies and Memoirs) [Idioma Inglés] - Tapa dura

"Kirkus: "
"A fascinating look inside the mind of a man terminally in love with a magnificent obsession. A lyrical and intense memoir."

"Publishers Weekly"(starred review)
Panoramic and fascinating The core of the book is a surfing chronicle, and Finnegan possesses impeccable short-board bona fides A revealing and magisterial account of a beautiful addiction.
Mark Rotella, "Publishers Weekly s Best Summer Books of the Summer: "
Like that powerful, glassy wave, great books on surfing come few and far between. This summer, New Yorker writer Finnegan recalls his teenage years in the California and Hawaii of the 1960s when surfing was an escape for loners and outcasts. A delightful storyteller, Finnegan takes readers on a journey from Hawaii to Australia, Fiji, and South Africa, where finding those waves is as challenging as riding them. "
Kirkus: "
A fascinating look inside the mind of a man terminally in love with a magnificent obsession. A lyrical and intense memoir.
"Library Journal"
An up-close and personal homage to the surfing lifestyle through the author s journey as a lifelong surfer. Finnegan s writing is polished and bold [A] high-caliber memoir. "

Describes the author's experiences as a lifelong surfer, from his early years in Honolulu through his culturally sophisticated pursuits of perfect waves in some of the world's most exotic locales.. NOTA: El libro no está en español, sino en inglés.