This historic book may have numerous typos and missing text. Purchasers can download a free scanned copy of the original book (without typos) from the publisher. Not indexed. Not illustrated. 1880 Excerpt: ...bear on lightly, to remove just as little wood as possible, and to keep perfect command of the tool. Cut away a mere film at first, the less the better; be satisfied with a grain at a time, and make your cuts for a long time as short as you can. You will probably, in spite of this instruction and of the best resolution, be tempted into trying to get on rapidly, the gouge or parting-tool or V, will dig in deeply, you will venture on a bold push, or try to pry up or break the wood, and then your tool will break its edge or slip. But if you will make the whole outline, at first, a mere indication, you will do well. Think only of learning how to hold the tool and how to acquire an easy mastery over it. It is very easy indeed to do all this, without being shown how, if you choose to cut very lightly. Most beginners are, however, in such a hurry to have some work to show as a proof of their skill, that they quite forget that the object of the first lessons is not to have something pretty to exhibit, but to learn how to carve. You understand that it is very easy to cut a straight groove from end to end of the panel, and only a little more difficult to go across it. But in running this groove from corner to corner, the grain lends itself to your cut on one side, and opposes it on the other. Therefore to cut deeply you must, to avoid tearing or splintering, cut one side in one way, and then turn the wood round and cut the other reversed. This continually occurs in all carving. Of course the resistance is less in close or fine grained woods than in those which are soft and fibrous. A very little cutting with a gouge on any waste bit of wood will render this perfectly clear. Practise on waste wood till you can run a line easily with any gouge. Having finished your gro...
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