Surfing is spiritual. Ask most wave riders and they’ll describe some sense of deeper connection with the water, the waves or the power around them. Surfing to them is a spiritual experience. In a subculture that’s traditionally known for its rebellion, here you’ll find a deep undercurrent of faith amongst these top wave riders who share an understanding that the Creator of the waves also desires to know and relate with them. In these pages, you’ll meet top surfers such as C.J. Hobgood, who rose to the top of the surf world but found it ultimately dissatisfying; Bethany Hamilton, a courageous teen who survived a shark attack and returned to the sport; surf legend Tom Curren, a middle-aged father of four whose comeback of sorts is the talk of the surf world; and Al Merrick, a remarkable surfboard shaper who crafts the vehicles ridden by surf stars. Discover what makes these celebrities and others believe that surfing is meaningless without a deep satisfying faith in something more.
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Surfing is more than a sport. It’s a lifestyle. Beneath the common stereotypes lies a worldwide family bonded by a mutual respect and passion for the water and the waves. Follow these surf celebrities into the deep of their individual spiritual journeys and discover what makes them, and other top watermen and women, believe that surfing is meaningless without an authentic faith in something more.
JEREMY V. JONES is the associate editor of Focus on the Family’s Breakaway magazine, covering topics ranging from surfing, sports and fitness to relationships, sexuality and technology. Among the awards he has won for his writing are the Evangelical Press Association’s Award of Merit and Awards of Excellence for best youth publication. He shares the 2004 ECPA Gold Medallion Award for Boom: A Guy’s Guide to Growing Up. Jeremy is an avid outdoor athlete and surfs whenever he has the chance and lives in Colorado Springs, Colorado.
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